Spleens, 3x5s, Molière, and French grad students

2016-03-24 07.16.50
3x5s or index cards. The name “3×5” comes from their size, which is 3 inches by 5 inches.

My morning routine includes studying French vocabulary, which means flash cards.  I make my flash cards from what we call in English index cards or 3x5s (pronounced “three by fives”–they take that name from the fact that they normally measure 3 inches by 5 inches).  Recently I’ve been amusing my younger coworkers by sharing my current vocabulary flash cards, and I have been impressed beyond belief by the breadth and depth of the English vocabulary that these kids have.  “Talon”?  No problem.  “Greenhouse”?  They’ve got it.  Yesterday I ran into the word rate, “spleen,” in the play Le malade imaginaire, a 17th-century French play by Molière.  One of them explained to me the various and sundry forms with which the English word “spleen” can be translated into French.  The word has at least five meanings in English.  The most common meaning is the internal organ that most vertebrates have, located on the left side in humans near the stomach and playing a role in a variety of processes, including ridding the body of old red blood cells and being involved in the immune response.  The other meaning, which is not nearly as common but is still found in the language, is given by Merriam and Webster as “feelings of anger or ill will often suppressed.”  These get split into two different words in French.

  • la rate: spleen (the internal organ).
  • le spleen: melancholy or ennui, and archaically, the same anger-related meaning as in English.
Illu_spleen
The spleen, or la rate. Picture source: Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1394146.

It was quite impressive to hear a computer scientist explain the 17th-century meaning of the word–that’s not something that I would expect an American computer science grad student to be able to do for the English equivalent.  I’ve been reading Molière, and apparently she has done so, too–again, I wouldn’t expect an American computer science grad student to be familiar with Shakespearean vocabulary.

It amazes me that there seems to be no French equivalent to the 3×5.  (I saw friends exchange the sidelong glances that I inspire so often here by accidentally saying inappropriate things when I referred to them by the Canadian term, fiches vierges–it can mean “blank cards,” but also “virgin cards.”)  I only survived my education by using these things to obsessively memorize pretty much every term, equation, and random fact that I was taught.  Considering the very demanding nature of the French educational system, I’m baffled by how French students manage to pass the  exams that are required to progress through the system without some equivalent of index cards.  I throw several packs of them into my luggage every time that I come to France, and can’t imagine learning as much as I do without them.

No clever title about the bombings in Brussels, but here’s some relevant vocabulary

ward-markey-sur-Twitter-echt-wtf-daar-in-zaventem-httpst.co2AGTBBA0xs-Google-Chrome-630x0
Scene from Zaventem airport in Brussels after the bombings of March 22, 2016. There is some concern that with the security in restricted areas of airports as high as it is now, terrorists will now start attacking the public areas, as they did today. Picture source: http://www.lejournaldelorne.fr/2016/03/22/attentats-explosions-a-l-aeroport-et-dans-le-metro-de-bruxelles-suivez-les-evenements-en-direct/.

The radio show that I listen to in the mornings (Les matins de France culture) starts with the various and sundry reporters going around and saying a few words about what they’ll be talking about.  Yesterday one of the reporters said this: I’ll be talking about the attacks in, um…in, um…well, there are so many of them.  [Nervous chuckle.]  This morning I woke up to the news of the latest attacks in Brussels: two bombings at the airport, then one at a metro station.  All major European capitals are on heightened security at the moment, especially at transit points, but other than that, planes are flying (except to and from Brussels), the trains are moving (except in Brussels, where all subways, busses, and trams are shut down, and people are being advised to stay at home), etc.

It’s depressing to note that I now know most of the words in any given story about a terrorist attack.  However, Zipf’s Law never really goes away, so here are some words from stories about this morning’s bombings.  For the full story from the source, click here.

  • survenir: to occur, to arise.

 Une explosion survenue dans le métro, à la station Maelbeek, aurait fait une dizaine de morts et de nombreux blessés.

“An explosion that took place in the metro, at the Maelbeek station, has caused a dozen deaths and numerous injured.”

  • réaffirmer: to reaffirm.

Nos pensées vont naturellement aux victimes, à leurs proches ainsi qu’à l’ensemble des autorités belges auxquelles nous réaffirmons notre solidarité.

“Naturally our thoughts are with the victims, with their dear ones, and we reaffirm our solidarity to all of the Belgian authorities.”

  • faire le point sur: to take stock of, to review.

Nous venons de faire le point sur notre dispositif en place aux frontières et dans les transports.

“We have just reviewed our security team in place at the frontiers and in the means of transport.”

  • rehausser: to raise, to boost.

Nous n’avions pas attendu cette attaque pour réhausser notre niveau de sécurité.

“We didn’t wait for this attack to boost our level of security.”  Note: the news story spells the word réhausser, but WordReference.com gives it as rehausser.

 

 

 

 

How we’re sounding stupid today: #JeSuisCirconflex

2016-03-21 08.41.55
“The last day of the fast.” Picture source: picture by me of an advertising poster in the train station.

The military has this problem.  People transfer from one “duty station” to another fairly often, and you need to be able to get them integrated quickly–you can’t have someone taking up unproductive space on a ship or on a base for very long.  The US military has gotten this integration process down to a science.  Basically, when you show up at a new command, you’re given a check-sheet.  You take it around to various and sundry places–the medical clinic, the pay clerk, the base library, etc.  The people who work there do whatever has to be done to get you integrated into the unit.  They sign your check-sheet, and you go on to the next place.  It takes maybe two days to get totally set, and then you’re productive.

The place where I work when I’m in France has a similar system.  By now, je connais déjà cette musique–I know the drill–and I can usually get all of my administrative stuff done the first day back in the lab.  There’s only one problem: I have to successfully pick up the check-sheet.  The issue is that it’s called a feuille jaune–a “yellow piece of paper” (it is indeed a piece of paper, and it is indeed yellow), and I constantly mess up and ask the administrator for a feuille jeune.  Only a one-vowel difference, but it means “young piece of paper,” not “yellow piece of paper.”  This gets me confused looks, or by now a smile.  I was reminded of just how ambiguous this really is on the way to work this morning, when I saw the poster that you can see at the top of this post.  What’s interesting about it is the word jeûne, which is pronounced the same as the word jeune, but spelt differently–notice the circumflex accent in the former.  As I said, they’re pronounced the same, but jeune (no accent) is “young” or “youngster,” while jeûne (with accented û) is a fast (that is, when you don’t eat).  The pair of words has been much in the news lately.  The issue here is that the French government will be instituting a spelling reform at the beginning of the next school year.  Among other derangements of the current system, some words with circumflex accents will be losing them.  There is a major Twitterstorm about this.  One funny tweet that I read pointed out that the circumflex accent on jeûne (a fast) is the only difference between je vais me faire un petit jeûne (I’m going to take a little fast) and je vais me faire un petit jeune (I’m going to have myself a little youngster.)

Now, “fast” is a perfect Zipf’s Law sort of word: it certainly is not common, but it also is certainly not particularly weird in any way–any native speaker knows it.  I had never run into jeûne before the Twitterverse went crazy about the spelling reform, and in fact, that’s how I learnt it.  Now it’s a couple months later, and there it is: right there in my face as I went to work this morning.  Zipf’s Law!

  • jaune (adj.): yellow.
  • le jaune: scab, strikebreaker.
  • le/la jeune: young person.
  • le jeûne: fast, fasting.

 

Paris metro etiquette

If you follow Parisian rules of etiquette on the metro, your visit will go more smoothly. Here’s how to do it.

enleve son sac a dos
“He who travels with his back loaded removes his back pack in order to be less bothersome.” Picture source: photo that I took of a sign in a metro station.

If you look on question-answering web sites like Quora, or even just do a quick Google search, you’ll see many people asking this question: Why do Parisians hate tourists?  The answer: Parisians do not hate tourists.  On the contrary–Paris is very aware that tourists are part of the life-blood of the city, and they are happy to have foreign visitors in droves.

However: there are definitely things that tourists do that can interfere with the flow of your daily life here, and those things can be irritating.  A lot of those things happen on the métro, the Paris subway system.  Every morning, 2.5 million people get on that thing for their commute to work, and then they do it again in the evening.  In hopes of preventing you from being one of those tourists who irritate the locals, here are some notes on metro etiquette.  You’ll note here many instances of what I understand to be the basic principle of French behavior: don’t inconvenience the other guy.

  • Entering/exiting: When you’re waiting to enter a subway car or train, stand off to the side of the door so that you’re not blocking it.  People will exit through the center, and then you enter at the side, or through the center if it’s not obstructed.  (This is a really common rule for tourists to break, and it’s really irritating during rush hour when lots of people are trying to get off and into the cars.  Don’t be that tourist.)
  • Hold gates open: When you go through the gate, hold it open behind yourself for the next guy.  You don’t have to stand there and wait for him, but if there’s someone right behind you, this is the polite thing to do.
  • Luggage: Be considerate about trying to wrestle your big, bulky suitcase through the turnstile when there are lots of people trying to go through it–wait until traffic lets up, so that you’re not keeping everyone else from getting to their train.  Some stations also have a space next to the turnstile for luggage, so look for those.  Also note that you shouldn’t be taking your @#$% luggage on the metro anyway–see this post for reasons why that’s a bad idea.
  • Strapontins: Subway cars in Paris typically have a couple of folding seats right next to the doors, called strapontins, believe it or not (it’s the general word for a folding chair).  If the car is crowded, don’t sit in them–you will see French people who are using them stand up when a bunch of people enter the car.
  • Be quiet: If you hear someone talking or laughing loudly on the metro, they will probably be speaking English.  If you hear someone speaking on a cell phone, they will probably be a foreigner.  In general, Parisians tend to be quiet on public transportation.  See here for a funny story about what can happen if you’re not.
  • Backpacks off: If a car is crowded, take off your backback–even if it’s a little one.  If you don’t, it’s super-awkward, both for you and for everyone else.
  • Offer your seat to pregnant/elderly people: Even kids from bad neighborhoods will offer their seats to an old person or a pregnant woman on the métro.  You should do the same.
  • Say pardon: You will often have to squeeze by a few people to get on or off of a crowded car.  The polite thing to do is to say pardon when you do so.
  • Don’t block the quai, stairs, or escalators–move to the right.  If you’re walking along the subway platform or going up/down stairs and escalators, stay to the right.  People will pass you on the left.  Similarly, if you need to stop and figure out which way to go, don’t stop in the middle of heavy foot-traffic–get out of the way while you get your bearings.
  •  le strapontin: folding seat, jump seat.
  • le quai: platform, dock, quay.
  • le wagon: subway car, train car.

 

Don’t take the train from the airport to Paris

Any guidebook will tell you that you can take the train from the airport to Paris. What they don’t tell you is that you can–BUT, YOU SHOULDN’T.

Man descending stairs, Abbesses Metro Station, line 12, Paris, France
Stairs at the Abbesses metro station. Picture source: http://allisonbailey.photoshelter.com/image/I0000_biCI_fb7wM.

I happened to be on the metro on the way home from work during rush hour yesterday.  Onto the packed train climbed a young woman wearing an enormous backpack.  Her travelling companion was similarly encumbered, and was also carrying an enormous, ornately embroidered, blue velvet sombrero.

Their backpacks took up at least as much space as two additional people would have.  Furthermore, since they were wearing them on their backs, there was no way that they could move without smacking someone with 65 liters’ worth of stuff, and no way that they could maneuver out of anyone else’s way in those tight quarters.

You didn’t even have to be able to hear them to know what their nationality was–just by watching their mouths, it was pretty clear that they were Americans.  (Yes, the mouths of American English speakers move quite differently from the mouths of French speakers.)  They had probably read their Paris guide books closely–and they had been lead astray by them.

Any Paris guidebook will tell you that you can get from Charles de Gaulle Airport (or Roissy, as the locals call it) by taking the train into Paris, and then switching onto the subway.  This is certainly true.  What the guidebooks don’t tell you is that even though you can, you should not do this. 

There are two basic problems with the take-the-train-to-the-subway plan, and I see those two problems raise their ugly heads all the time.

  1. There are a heck of a lot of stairs in some of those stations.  I can’t tell you how often I have come across someone trying to struggle up–or down–a long flight of stairs in a Parisian metro station with a huge suitcase.  (Oh, there really ARE nice people in the world, said one old lady with an absolutely enormous suitcase who I found almost in tears at the top of a loooong flight of stairs in a metro station.  If I hadn’t recently been training to fight in Nationals, I don’t think that I could have carried that big honking thing down the stairs, either.)  Even if your plan is to take the train to someplace from where you can catch a taxi, versus transferring to a subway, you are not going to escape the stairs in the train station.
  2. Trains and metro cars can both be absolutely packed with people.  Want to get stared at with deep dislike?  Try to squeeze your suitcase with a week’s worth of vacation wear into a subway wagon filled with people jammed [trying to think of a non-vulgar way to put this] together like sardines already.  Enjoy the welcoming looks of all of the people on their way to/from work as they try to squeeze around your giant suitcase, which is now mostly blocking the door.  Roll your 49-pound suitcase over the toes of some nice Parisian woman’s $835 asymmetric-strap Manolo Blahniks.  Or, roll your 49-pound suitcase over the toes of some nice Parisian woman’s $10 Converse knock-offs after she’s just spent all day on her feet at her job as a cashier.  Or…well, the possibilities for pissing off people on a crowded train or metro car are endless, really.

Is that really how you want to start (or end) your vacation?  Probably not.  I recommend that instead, you spring for a taxi.  Due to a recently-passed law, the price of taxi rides from either Paris airport into Paris proper is fixed: 50 euros to the Right Bank, 55 euros to the Left Bank.  You get in the taxi, the total price shows up on the meter, and that’s it.  After a looong flight across the Atlantic, this is the only civilized way to start your Parisian adventure.

I ate my dinner last night while mulling over what the heck that kid could possibly have been doing with that giant sombrero.  Using it to cover his eyes while he slept on the plane?  Using it to cover his entire body while he slept on the plane?  Bringing it as a present for some unsuspecting Parisian who couldn’t possibly have enough room in their tiny Parisian apartment for a Sombrero of Unusual Size?  Hard to say…

  • fourvoyer: to mislead; to lead astray.  The American tourists with their giant backpacks (and their giant sombrero) were led astray by their guide books.
  • se fourvoyer: to be mistaken, to get something completely wrong; to get lost, to stray from one’s path.  I do this pretty much all the time.

Vocabulary of the terrorist attack in the Ivory Coast

terrorst attack ivory coast
A man helps an injured child at the site of the March 2016 terrorist attack at a beach resort in Ivory Coast. Picture source: http://heavy.com/news/2016/03/ivory-coast-grand-bassam-hotel-terrorist-attack-photos-pictures-isis-suspect-victims-nationalities/2/.

I swear, it makes my heart ache every time I learn vocabulary from yet another terrorist attack.  On Sunday, March 13, six guys dressed in black showed up at a resort on the beaches of Grand-Bassam in Côte d’Ivoire (Ivory Coast) and started shooting people–men, women, and children.  By the end, 22 people were dead–14 civilians, 2 soldiers, and the six gunmen.  Al Qaeda in the Islamic Maghreb (AQIM) took credit.  Bastards…

Here is some vocabulary from the Matins de France culture news story.

  • balnéaire: seaside, bathing.
  • la station balnéaire: beach resort.
  • le fusil: [fyzi] rifle.  Also a gunman, a “(good) shot.”
  • le pistolet: pistol.
  • kalash: a pistol, as far as I can tell.  Presumably short for Kalashnikov.  However, from what I can tell from a French slang web site and from a list of synonyms that I turned up, it seems to be a pistol.  Native speakers?  Also, does someone know the gender of this noun?
  • la flingue: pistol (slang).

Plate-lickin’ good: Cafe culture in Paris takes an unexpected turn

cafe arts et the
The Café art et thé on rue de la Roquette. Picture source: Yelp, http://www.yelp.fr/biz/art-et-th%C3%A9-paris-2.

I saw something today that I’ve never seen before: a French person taking food home from a restaurant.  Doggy bags really are not a thing in France at all–there isn’t even a word for them–and it was a moderate scandal last year when the government passed a law requiring restaurants over a certain size to provide them.  So, when the lady a couple tables over told the waiter that she wanted to take her left-over merguez (a kind of sausage) home, he brought her a piece of aluminum foil, and she wrapped them up.

What happened next surprised me even more.  To set the context, you have to realize that this was a perfectly nice little cafe, not some hipster hole in the wall.  Carefully-coiffed middle-aged ladies with pearls and subtle but impressive decolletage (or décolleté, as we say in these parts), silver-haired guys in sports coats and shirts with collars–that kind of thing.  So, imagine that–and then imagine this lady licking her plate.  Wow–I was pretty stunned.  Amazingly, no one else seemed to notice.

I will happily grant that I do not have a complete handle on French table manners.  However, if this is something normal, I definitely haven’t seen or heard of it before, and let me tell you, the French typically take their table manners seriously.  Native speakers, can you enlighten the rest of us?  Incidentally: the lunch was delicious.  Café art et thé, on rue de la Roquette.  A delicious lamb couscous and a glass of Côtes du Rhone set me back 15 euros.  Come at 11 on a Sunday and you may find a large group of people discussing philosophy, depending on where they’re meeting that week.

  • la brochette: a kebab.  Typically lamb, unless otherwise specified, but ask.
  • le couscous: couscous!  Some say that it is becoming one of France’s national dishes.  France has a large North African Arab population, and you can get excellent North African food here–Algerian, Moroccan, Tunisian, whatever.
  • lécher: to lick.  Yes, this is a relative of the English word lecher, in a not-too-roundabout way.  The Frankish word lekko:n (the o: is a long o) gave rise to the Old French word lichiere/lechier, meaning “to live in debauchery or gluttony,” and also to the verb lécher, “to lick.”  English lecher comes from lichiere/lechier.  Etymology is so much more fun than you might have thought!

Managing to get some noodles: tougher than you might think

French spelling and English spelling are equally whack, in that in both systems, the way that a word is spelt doesn’t tell you how to pronounce it–it just gives you hints about how to pronounce it.  If you see lead, do you pronounce it [lid] (present tense of the verb to lead) or [lèd] (the metal)?  What about the first r in February?  Neither language has a goal of reflecting pronunciation in spelling–rather, the writing systems of both languages seek to reflect the meanings of words in the spelling.  So, we spell electric, electrician, and electricity with a c in all three forms, even though that second c is pronounced differently in all three words (k in electric, sh in electrician, and s in electricity)–the spelling reflects the fact that there’s a shared element in the meaning of all three words, rather than trying to reflect the pronunciation.  French spelling works pretty much the same way.

Lately I’ve been struggling with the French letter sequences ouille and ouilles.  They’re actually quite simple to pronounce (for an English speaker)–[uj] in the International Phonetic Alphabet, or something like the oo of food followed by a y.  I think I have a mental block related to my inability to accept the fact that such a long sequence of letters could correspond to such a short sound.  Also, I get tripped up when they’re not at the end of the world.  Um, word.  Here are some examples–a combination of material from Christopher and Theodore Kendris’s Pronounce it perfectly in French and my own random adventures:

  • la nouille: [la nuj] noodle
  • les nouilles: [le nuj] noodles
  • des nouilles: [de nuj] what you actually have to say to the server in the cafeteria at work if you want some noodles
  • la citrouille: [la citruj] pumpkin–there was pumpkin soup all over Paris last fall
  • les citrouilles: [le citruj] pumpkins
  • la grenouille: [gʀənuj] frog. Transcription from WordReference.com.
  • les grenouilles: frogs
  • l’andouillette: [ɑ̃dujɛt] kind of sausage.  Transcription from WordReference.com.
  • se debrouiller: [debruje] to manage, to figure things out for oneself
  • la rouille: [ruj] rust
  • rouiller: [ruje] to rust
  • barbouiller de: [barbuje] to smudge with

Se débrouiller is an especially important verb in my life, as I frequently berate myself for not being able to do it in France.

English note: you probably shouldn’t use the English word whack as an adjective (meaning something like crazy, not sensible, not good) unless you’re a hell of a lot younger than I am, but I include it here for didactic purposes.

Linguistics geekery: we say that a spelling system that mostly tries to reflect pronunciation is phonological.  We say that a spelling system that mostly tries to reflect meaning is morphological.  We say that a spelling system that mostly tries to reflect the history of words is etymological.  The French spelling system is usually described as etymological, particularly with respect to diacritics (accent marks) that reflect sounds that have disappeared over the course of history (a common source of French accent marks in the spelling system).  I think that morphological spelling systems can often also be described as etymological, but can’t swear to that.  Fun ouille words welcomed in the comments, native speakers…

 

You have to be a little bit Buddhist to live in Paris

a la recherche du temps perdu
“Remembrance of things past,” by Marcel Proust. Picture source: http://www.amazon.fr/recherche-temps-perdu-c%C3%B4t%C3%A9-Swann/dp/2070724905.

I think it was Adam Gopnik who said that in order to be able to live in Paris, you need to be able to simultaneously have a deep appreciation for that which is ancient and familiar, and accept that nothing is forever–sometimes, the things that we love change out from under us.

Doing my first-day-back-in-Paris grocery shopping when I arrived this week, I noticed that the fruit and vegetable stand down the street was closed.  Today, doing my weekly shopping, I saw that it was still closed.  I stopped into the florist’s shop next to the fruit and vegetable stand for my Saturday morning bouquet.  Tell me please, what to itself happened the fruit merchants to the side?  He took my 3 euros.  They closed.  A restaurant is going to open there.  It’s a shame–they were nice. 

Them being French and all, I never knew their names, despite having shopped there whenever I was in Paris for the past year and a half.  When I went there for the first time, I made the classic American rookie mistake at a French fruit and vegetable stand: I picked up a piece of fruit to smell it.  (In America, that’s how we tell whether or not it’s ripe.  I learnt this as a young man, by flirting with little old ladies in the produce section.)  Don’t smell the fruit!, the lady scolded me.  I’ll get it for you.  I asked for some figs.  Do you want wall figs?  I gave her the puzzled look that I give people in France so often.  When are you going to eat them–today?  Tomorrow?  Eventually, I realized that she had not asked me if I wanted figues murs–“wall figs”–but figues mûrs–“ripe figs,”   which is pronounced the same, but which wasn’t a word that I’d heard in a while.  (Zipf’s Law: most words are rare, but they do occur.)  After that, we got along fine.  Once you go back to a French business a few times, they recognize you as a regular, and they are far less formal.  She, or her husband, or her father-in-law, depending on who was working, would often throw some dates or an apple in my bag along with whatever I had purchased.

I guess the whole appreciate-what’s-old, accept-that-things-change thing is a good idea for life in general, just as much as it is for living in Paris.  Wives move on, or you move on, start-ups fail, people die.  I guess that if you can be aware of that impermanent nature of things, you either have to be chronically depressed, or–and this is very fortunate, if you can manage it–resolve to live them fully while they’re around.  The fruit merchants that were such a familiar part of my daily life here are gone.  I’ll miss hearing their kids chattering in Arabic in the stairwell, and seeing their youngest daughter giggle and hide her face when I call her ma belle–“my beauty.”  But, for a while there, they were part of what made this place home, and I am grateful for that.

The sublime and the ridiculous: trash collection vocabulary in French

img_2624
Picture source: me.

One day in Japan, a few of us Westerners were out with some Japanese guys.  We walked by a weathered old wooden building with beautiful, faded characters written on the side.  It was really quite striking.  “What does it say?,” we asked the Japanese guys.  The answer: “no parking.”

2016-03-10 08.57.08
Picture source: me.

Indeed, just reading the signs that I walk by on the way to work–well, really, on my way anywhere–is a common way for Zipf’s Law to make its appearance in my day.  The picture above shows a sign that I passed on my way to the lab yesterday.  It’s on a pretty pedestrian subject, but I still had to look up a number of the words on it.  And so goes the romance of the experience of learning a language.

  • le décharge: garbage dump.  (Also a shot or a salvo.)
  • l’encombrant: I haven’t been able to find this as a noun, although that seems to be how it’s being used in the sign.  As an adjective, it means “in the way,” or “cumbersome.”
  • le créneau: this can mean a number of related things–a slot, a niche, a crenel, and I guess metaphorically, a time slot.
  • le créneau de collecte: the trash collection time, I think.
  • le conteneur: container.
  • les ordures (n.f.pl.) litter, trash.
  • l’encombrement: blockage.
  • passible de verbalisation: I think this is “subject to reporting.”  Native speakers?
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